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General Biking in Riau and West Sumatra is cheap and easy. There are numerous fast speedboat connections between the Riau islands, Singapore and mainland Sumatra, with Sekepang Batam (Singapore and Pekenbaru) and Tanjung Pinang (Lingga islands, Bangka, Jambi and Jakarta) as hubs. The area is also well-served by airports, with good connections between Nan Heng airport Batam (between Nagoya, the capital town in the west and Nongsapura ferry terminal in the north-east) and Padang and Pekenbaru). There are also airports at Jambi, Bengkulu and Palembang, but these are domestic, servicing twin prop light aircraft to Padang and Pekenbaru. Domestic air travel is cheap, often about half of the cost of flying in and out of Changi. There are numerous ‘big bus’ connections and around centers like Bukit Tinggi and Padang, many microlites. Only big buses accept the bike on top of the roof however. No charge is made for this. Bikes also go free of change on speedboats. On the DC10 services the bike goes on the plane as free cargo, provides it weighs in at less than 18 kilos (mine weighs 15). Just remove the wheels and bungee tightly to the frame. To minimize damage, scrounge some cardboard and make it into a parcel. Bikes shops and mechanics abound with good shops specializing in mountain bikes in Nagoya Batam, Pekenbaru, Padang and Bukit Tinggi. In small towns and even villages there is usually at least one bike mechanic although parts are often unavailable. It is a good idea to travel as light as possible, with a saddle-bag or panniers on a rack. If headed for the mountains I also take a warm waterproof jacket. A water bottle is essential.
Sample Prices of Essentials Generally low for losmen and penginapan and from 10,000 to 20,000 for wisma and small hotels. Exceptions are Batam and Tanjung Pinang, where prices are artificially inflated by tourists. Visa card is widely accepted in big towns. In emergencies, you can follow the truck drivers who sleep free at some restaurants. Since this means sleeping on a wooden platform, a rubber mat is useful.
Maps Periplus does a high scale good map of Batam and Bintan, including a good lower-scale map of the Lingga islands (Lingga and Singkep). They also have a low-scale map of the whole of Sumatra. Unfortunately their high-scale map of West Sumatra is not available yet. The best and most detailed maps are the Indonesian maps of individual Sumatran provinces, available for about 6,000 rp in the bookshops of any central market. A compass is extremely useful.
Time Sumatra and Riau are 1 hour ahead of Singapore time. Nightfall is at about 6.20 pm local time. Unless specified otherwise, times below are Indonesian.
Routes: Bukit Tinggi and Padang From World Trade Center, take either of the earliest two speedboats (7.30 am and 8.00 am Singapore time) to Sekupang. Check in half an hour before departure and hand the bike over at the departure gate. Tickets can be bought on the next floor up. This costs an exorbitant $17 for the 40-minute trip. On arrival, go to the domestic ferry terminal (the big blue building next door) and buy a ticket to Pekenbaru for 31,000rp. There is one boat a day, leaving at 9.00. Alternatively, fly from Nan Heng, Batam, to Pekenbaru. In this case, get the boat from WTC to Batu Ampar (20 kilos to the airport) or to Nongsapura (15 kilos). In emergencies, the best place to spend the night is at the Theresa Penginapan (10,000 rp) in Pelita in Nagoya, about 15 rather hilly kilos east. The boat stops briefly at Tanjong Balai, Kurimum, where a nasi bukus can be bought for lunch (3,000rp) and again at Selat Panjang. On arrival at Buton, get the bus conductor to tie the bike to the roof on the bus to Pekenbaru. This is a boring trip lasting 3 hours. The first hour is on uncomfortable laterite tracks. You get into Pekenbaru at about 5pm. Ask to be dropped at the Bus Terminal. From here you can proceed by bus to Bukkittigi (6 hours). There are buses every hour until 8pm. Alternatively, stay at the pleasant and friendly Tommi’s Place, about half a kilo away for 5,000rp. Ask for Gang Nantongga at Jalan Nangka 41D. Buses to Bukit Tinggi run frequently in the morning, starting about 7.00am. In Bukit Tinggi, head for Kampong China, where there are lots of guest houses with rooms at about 6,000rp. Drop in at the ‘Under the Bridge’ Restaurant. Good food and the owner, Mr. Yudi, is a mine of information. Bukit Tinggi is an interesting place to explore, with good walks in the Sianook Canyon. Alternatively, fly from Batam to Padang (1 flight per day, about $80, 50 minutes). If you want to stay in Padang, head for the Backpacker’s Hotel on Jalan Purus 2 (10,000 rp for dorm, $17,000 for a single: spotlessly clean with restaurant, bar and helpful staff, near the sea). Buses to Bukit Tinggi run to Padang (2 hours), taxi 1 hour. Bukit Tinggi to Lake Miningjau: 35 kilos, via Bukit Indah (very steep but short) and Matur. The descent from Embun Pagi to the lake is extremely steep, with 44 hairpin bends. Very tough to go back up. Allow 2 hours for the climb. Stay at the Alam (10,000 rp, but has excellent rooms, views and restaurant) or at Rizals (6,000 rp) on the beach. If time allows turn right at Matur and make a detour to Lawang Top (10 kilos). There is a great panoramic park with staggering views of the lake from a nice restaurant (cold beer at 2,500 a tin). From Mininjau it is possible to descend to Padang via Lumut Basson (35 kilos, stay at Hotel Nirwana for 10,000 rp), Pariman (60 kilos from Lumut Basson) and Padang (70 kilos from Pariman) Bukit Tinggi to Batusangkar: About 50 kilos. The road to Payakumbu ascends gradually to Baso where you turn right on a small road south-east to Tabatpatah. Delightful swooping descents to Tabatpatah, where there is a nice panoramic park. Continue down to Batusangkar (The Mingangkabau Village and Royal palace is worth a look). Stay in the Wisma ? for 5,000 - 10,000 rp, opposite the restaurant. Batusangkar to Sungei Umbilin, Lake Singgarak: About 35 kilos. Take the main road west to the junction about 1 kilo before Limokaum and turn left onto a smaller road south. This lovely winding road continues gently down through rice paddies and forest, but watch for occasional paths of bad gravelly patches with potholes. The road joins the river Umbilin and descends to Lake Singgarak. Turn right and follow the shore for 3 kilos to Pasir Jaya, about 1 kilo before Tanjung Mutiara. Stay at the Wisma Jayakarta for 10,000 rp. There is a bar with fridge and a beach by the lake. Eat in the Nasi Padang restaurant next door. There is another, more expensive and classier hotel on the other side of the lake. Alternative route: Just past Balimbing on the road to Umbilin, take a sharp right turn and follow a small asphalt road south uphill to Padang Luar. At Padang Luar, continue to great views of the lake at the top of the hill. From here descend with extreme caution on a loose gravel track. The track emerges beneath the railway embankment at Pasir Jaya, almost opposite the Wisma. Sungei Umbilin to Solok: About 50 kilos. Simply follow the lake south to Singgarak town and continue on to Solok. Apart from a few hills, this route is flat and congested with traffic. The losmen and penginapans in Solok are scruffy and unsafe-looking. There is however, a nice hotel near the bus terminal (Hotel Ully) with rooms for 18,000rp (Visa accepted). Solok to Danau Di Atas: About 70 kilos, quite challenging. Follow the road south and climb to the junction at Lubuk Sulasih (30 kilos). Turn left up the small road and continue to climb up through forests, past waterfalls and into tea-plantations to a hilly plateau. When you can see the lake below, stop at the first restaurant. This is Danau Di Atas. Stay in the grocery shop at the top of the ridge (50 meters further south, then turn left on a dirt track for 100 meters. The shop is at the top of the hill) for 7,000 rp (nice room with blankets and a sitting room with great views of both lakes). Alternatively, carry on another 10 kilos to Alhanpanjang, where there is a losman. Danau Di Atas to Padang: About 100 kilos. Simply coast down north to the junction at Lubuk Sulasih and turn left for Padang. Continue coasting down until the sea is visible. From here, exercise caution as the road steepens dramatically and starts to twist and turn. At the plain at the bottom, continue west and follow the road signs for Pantai Padang. At the sea, turn right and go north past warungs and beer stalls. Ask for Jalan Purus Dua about 5 kilos up and stay in the Backpackers Hotel. From Padang, there are lovely beaches at Air Manis (15 kilos south, but hilly) and at Pasir Putih (30 kilos south) where there are guesthouses. From Padang, the airport at Tabing is 7 kilos north on the big road to Padang Panjang. A taxi will take you there, plus bike for $7,000 rp.
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